Government Offices Biomedical Oversight Committee Board of Appeals Board of Assessors Board of Health Board of Registrars of Voters Cemetery Commission Conservation Commission Council on Aging Handicapped Commission Historical Commission Library Board of Trustees License Commission Planning Board Recreation Commission Retirement Board Sign Review Board Assessing Department Auditor Building City Clerk City Council Conservation Department Engineering Fire Health Department Human Resources Information Systems Library Mayor Police Public Works Purchasing Recreation Department Schools Sealer of Weights and Measures Solicitor Treasurer & Collector Veterans Services Industrial Dev. & Financing Auth. Woburn Golf and Ski Authority Woburn Housing Authority Woburn Redevelopment Authority City Information Population and Area The City of Woburn occupies 13.1 square miles and residential community of 35,943 people. Historical Overview The city is located north of Boston, nearly at the head of the Mystic River Valley and roughly halfway between Lowell and Boston. Woburn was settled in 1640 and incorporated as a distinct township in 1642. It is one of the oldest and most historic communities in New England. Colonial Woburn once also encompassed the modern Massachusetts towns of Wilmington, Burlington and Winchester who broke off into separate townships in 1730, 1799 and 1850 respectively. Though small tanning and shoemaking activities were begun by 1700, Woburn’s economy remained primarily agricultural until the early 19th century. The opening of the Middlesex Canal in 1803 provided Woburn tanners with a new means of obtaining tanbark and the leather business in town boomed. The opening of the Boston & Lowell Railroad in 1835 and its Woburn Loop line in 1844 rapidly expanded the shoemaking and tanning industries. The early rubber industry was established in East Woburn by 1836. Charles Goodyear changed both the rubber industry and the world with his pioneer discovery – in East Woburn – of the "vulcanization" process in 1839. Demand for shoe leather during the Civil War gave a boost to Woburn’s leather production, and by 1865 there were 21 tanning and currying establishments in town. Immigrants from Ireland, Nova Scotia and Canada moved to Woburn to take jobs in the tanneries. By 1885 Woburn was the leading leather producer in the area. The city retained this lead well into the 20th century, developing with it a range of associated support industries, including a chemical works, machine shops, and makers of tanners’ knives. Henry Thayer of Woburn developed the process of chrome tanning in 1901, which took the place of bark tanning. By the 1930s, however, under the combined adversities of the Great Depression and changing markets the tanning industry declined. By 1940 only six tanneries remained. Today there are none. The Woburn of today is mix of quiet neighborhoods, vibrant planned industrial parks and wooded conservation areas such as the Horn Pond Reservation and Forest Park. Woburn’s Historic Highlights The Baldwin Mansion: 2 Alfred Street, North Woburn Built in 1661 by Deacon Henry Baldwin and altered to its present Federal era appearance by his great-grandson, Colonel Loammi Baldwin (1745-1807) in 1803. Colonel Baldwin was the builder of the Middlesex Canal; the cultivator of the famous "Baldwin" apple and the first Sheriff of Middlesex County under the Massachusetts Constitution of 1780. Baldwin played a pivotal role in the Battles of Lexington and Concord as commander of the town’s three militia companies. His brilliant ambush of the retreating British column at the "Bloody Angle" began the rout back to Boston on that fateful day. Colonel Baldwin served under General Washington with great distinction as the head of the 26th Continental Army Regiment. His son, Loammi 2nd (1780-1838), is called the "Father of American Civil Engineering". He constructed the first naval dry-docks in the Western Hemisphere and was the principal designer of the Bunker Hill Monument. Another son, James Fowle Baldwin (1782-1862) designed and built the Boston and Lowell Railroad in 1836, one of the first in the United States and the Boston Water System. George Rumford Baldwin (1798-1888) built the Boston Marine Railway and the Quebec Water System. Moved to its present location on the banks of the Old Middlesex Canal in 1971, the restored Baldwin Mansion is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The Old Middlesex Canal: Winchester line north to Wilmington line Construction began on this engineering marvel in 1794 and continued through 1803. Col. Loammi Baldwin was the Construction Superintendent. The 27 mile canal commenced at Boston harbor and passed in a northerly direction through Charlestown, Medford, Woburn, Wilmington, Billerica and Chelmsford to the Merrimack River at Lowell, a distance of 27 miles. It connected the rich natural resources of the interior of New Hampshire to the Massachusetts capital and the sea. Woburn rapidly became the center of the canal’s commercial and social lives. A steady supply of tan bark from New Hampshire trees made the growth of the community’s tanning industry possible. The passage of canal passenger boats and freight boats through the three sets of double locks located at Horn Pond was very time consuming – giving birth to a thriving tavern business. Three taverns were located here on the towpath providing eager patrons with refreshments, bowling alleys, and dancing. Boating on the pond was a popular pastime. It was a favorite resort for genteel Bostonians to escape the city’s summer heat. Horn Pond was one of the first great resorts in the new Republic. The coming of the Boston and Lowell Railroad in 1835 – which ran roughly parallel to the towpath - soon ruined the freight business of the Middlesex Canal Corporation. The old canal managed to compete until 1853 when it finally closed to through boat traffic. The Corporation was dissolved in 1859. Today, it’s fitting that the first recognizable traces of the canal north of Boston are in Woburn, the home of the project’s originator and chief builder, Col. Loammi Baldwin. Starting at Kilby Street the water bearing remains of the old towpath and berm proceed north through Central Square to Merrimack Street in North Woburn. The Middlesex Canal is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is a National Civil Engineering Landmark. Baldwin's Landing on the Old Middlesex Canal: Kiwanis Park, North Woburn On the banks of the Middlesex Canal in North Woburn was located the private wharf and landing for the estate of Colonel Loammi Baldwin. The Baldwin "homestead" encompassed some 150 acres of meadows, tillage and orchards. It was a tranquil country estate, with the Colonel's mansion house situated amongst the walks, shrubs and flowers of an English garden extending to the water's edge. From the "landing", Baldwin apples and other products of the farm were loaded onto canal boats for shipment to the Boston markets. Great parties of guests arrived from Boston to attend Colonel Baldwin's frequent balls and banquets. The 1790 House: 827 Main Street, North Woburn This magnificent Federal period home on the banks of the Middlesex Canal was originally built in 1790 for Woburn’s first lawyer, Joseph Bartlett. Shortly before completion, however, it was purchased by Col. Loammi Baldwin who hoped to convince the expatriate Count Rumford to return to live in Woburn. Though these dreams were never realized, the author Frances Parkinson Keyes, who spent childhood summers in the home, refers to it repeatedly in her memoirs as the "Count Rumford House". Legend also suggests that the house may have been a "station" on the Abolitionist "Underground Railroad" in the pre-Civil War era. In 1815 Hall Jackson Kelley conducted a private school for boys in the spacious mansion, but closed due to his inability to attract "scholars". It was while he taught here that he first read the newly published "Journals of Lewis and Clark". Kelley conceived a passion for the Pacific Northwest and became the prime advocate of the United States laying claim to modern Oregon. His experiences as a "mountain man" and explorer in that region are legendary. Because of its grand design and setting the 1790 House was frequently the scene of soirees and balls commemorating important events in Woburn. In 1800 it was the scene of Baldwin’s great Centennial Ball. In 1803 a gala was held to celebrate the opening of the Middlesex Canal. The 1790 House is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Count Rumford Birthplace National Historic Landmark: 90 Elm Street, North Woburn From his humble beginnings in this farmhouse in 1753, Ben Thompson rose to become General Sir Benjamin Thompson, the Count of Rumford. He was a man of unlimited energy and resources who managed to carry on a brilliant scientific career against a backdrop of constant political intrigue. A Loyalist during the Siege of Boston in 1775, he was forced to flee to Great Britain. After holding numerous offices, he became Under-Secretary of State for Colonies in 1780. Embroiled in an espionage scandal, he returned to America at the head of a British cavalry regiment to demonstrate his loyalty to the King. After the war, Thompson returned to England, where he was knighted by King George III in 1784. He then headed to the Continent as a "soldier of fortune", becoming a military advisor to the Elector and Duke of Bavaria. His talents for organization and intrigue lead to rapid advancement. Sir Benjamin was second only to the monarch in power. He was Bavarian Privy Councilor of State (Prime Minister), Minister of War, Minister of Police and Lieutenant General commanding the entire army. In Bavaria, Thompson reformed the government, eliminated begging and established workhouses for the poor. He created Munich's "English Garden" in 1789. It is still the largest and most beautiful public park in Europe. The Elector ennobled Sir Benjamin as a Count (Rumford) of the Holy Roman Empire in 1791. Steadfast in his scientific pursuits, Rumford was a pioneer physicist, concentrating his experiments on heat conduction and radiant heat. He designed the "Rumford Roaster", the ancestor of the modern kitchen stove. Rumford developed a practical method of central heating with steam. His "steam stove" was the first radiator. Most enduring has been his "Rumford Fireplace. Designed by the count in 1795 it revolutionized fireplace design with its damper and smoke shelf. Every modern fireplace is based on Rumford's improvements. Today's drip coffee maker, a staple of every kitchen counter, is a result of Rumford's work. Franklin Roosevelt once named Rumford as one of the five most intriguing men of history. The others: Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, Theodore Roosevelt and Napoleon. Pretty good company for a farm lad from Woburn! The Count Rumford Birthplace has been designated a National Historic Landmark by the National Park Service. It is also listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Woburn Public Library: 45 Pleasant Street, Woburn Square The Woburn Public Library is one of architect H.H. Richardson's acknowledged masterpieces. Opened in 1879, the building more than satisfies the expressed wish of donor Charles Bowers Winn that "this Library building shall be an architectural ornament to the town..." It is not only Richardson's first library, but his first work after completion of his masterful Trinity Church in Boston. The basic plan of the Woburn Public Library is that of a Latin cross. The longest member extends north and south and includes the 67 foot study hall with a 28 foot high barrel ceiling and the two-story alcoves along each side. The shorter member of the cross runs east to west and contains the reference room and reading areas. At the north and northeast ends of the cross, Richardson incorporated an Octagon Room, a cloistered porch and a dramatic 78 foot tower into his design. The Woburn Public Library's collections of paintings, sculptures and other objects of art are a museum unto themselves. But for over 148 years – since its founding in 1856 - the mission of the Woburn Library, regardless of where it was housed has been the same - the delivery of the best library service possible to the community. The words of C.B. Winn engraved inside the entry porch sum it up best. He hopes that the library will be for the "use, benefit and improvement of the people of Woburn". The Woburn Public Library has been designated a National Historical Landmark by the National Park Service. It is also listed on the National Register of Historic Places. First Congregational Church: 322 Main Street, Woburn Square Woburn's meeting houses have dominated the landscape of Woburn Center since 1642. In that year the first meeting house was erected upon the Common. The present Congregational Church is the sixth of these arks of worship. It was designed by architect John Stevens. Dedicated October 31, 1860 this massive structure is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The spire juts heavenward 196 feet. The interior is marked by a cheerful simplicity. This imposing structure is believed to be the largest wooden church in the America whose sanctuary is not supported by interior pillars. It is also the tallest wooden structure of its kind in the world. With balconies to the rear and on both sides, the original seating capacity was 1500. In contrast to the overall simplicity, the organ sits grandly in its niche behind the pulpit - its arrangement of pipes splendidly housed in a Moorish oak case. Standing off to the left of the church building is an ancient stone block inscribed with the date "1642". This is the "Old Horse Block" which stood in front of the first meeting house on the Common. Men and women journeyed to Sunday services on the same horse, the lady seated behind her husband. The horse block was used in mounting and dismounting their steeds. This particular stone block was incorporated into the foundation of the third meeting house in 1752. It still shows damage suffered when the church burnt to the ground June 17, 1808. The historic stone was made part of the foundation of the fourth church (1809-1840), and the fifth church in 1840 which later was sold to the Unitarians when the sixth and present church was built in 1860. When the Unitarian Church was moved back from the street onto a new foundation in 1885, the "Old Horse Block" was removed to its current honored position. Having felt the footsteps of the Puritan founders, having been a silent witness to over 350 years of our city's history - this "touchstone" holds a unique place in our past. Woburn City Hall: On the Common, Woburn Square Facing proudly on Woburn Common, City Hall has an air of permanence about it which suggests a much older structure. But as recently as 1930, the site was covered by two ancient rundown buildings which together served as the municipal government's center. One was the Police Station housed in an old church from 1829, and the other was the City Hall housed in an old school house from the 1840's. Both were fire traps. Fate sort of stepped in and sped up the inevitable. On the opposite side of the Common stood the four story Woburn Five Cents Saving Bank building. The Woburn District Court rented the entire third floor. 91930 the bank decided to demolish the top two floors of their building and redesign the remainder. The result was the building as it stands today, now Sterling Bank. Another result was the displacement of the District Court. The City of Woburn moved quickly to address not only the issue of where the Court would go, but to also alleviate the horrible conditions at City Hall and the Police Station. A new building was designed which neatly packaged all three functions under one roof. Construction was underway before year's end. Nearly 5,000 people turned out for the dedication of the new City Hall on August 31, 1931. The Woburn Daily Times reflected that the whole notion of a new building had come literally "out of a clear sky", but thought that the resulting structure was "as fine a building as the most ambitious of our citizens could ever had aspired to." Architecturally, the building follows a Federal design of red brick with white trim. The stone basement, stone quoins and window treatments give it a formal dignity. The most imposing exterior features are the front portico with its six Corinthian columns and the impressive cupola. The interior features, such as the marble lobby, rotunda and City Council Chambers are a stark contrast to the rough benches and crowded conditions of the Town House and City Hall of old. The First and Second Burial Grounds: Woburn Square The First Burial Ground, located on Park Street was used as the town burial yard from 1640 until 1794. The earliest surviving stone is dated 1690. Within this ancient yard are buried the ancestors of five United States Presidents – Franklin Pierce, Benjamin Harrison, Grover Cleveland, Calvin Coolidge and Herbert Hoover. Capt. Edward Johnson, the "Father of Woburn" and author of the first published history of New England in 1653 lies here in an unmarked grave. Woburn’s two casualties of the Battles of Lexington and Concord – Asahel Porter and Daniel Thompson lie in marked graves. Many of the quaint and curious epitaphs carved on the old stones in this yard are famous and frequently cited in literature. The tomb of the noted Baldwin family holds Col. Loammi Baldwin, the Patriot and canal builder; his sons Loammi 2nd, James F., Benjamin F., Cyrus and their families. The Second Burial Ground on Montvale Avenue dates from 1794 to 1845, when Woodbrook Cemetery on Salem Street opened. Here are buried 51 Revolutionary War veterans. Many important early Woburnites, including Samuel Thompson, Sylvanus Plympton and the victims of the tragic Clapp House Disaster, are buried in this yard – which originally was the garden of the Mousall house, the first dwelling in Woburn, 1640. Battle Road Woodlands: West Woburn TFair, windy and cold. A distressing day", is the way Reverend Marrett, Pastor of the Woburn Precinct church described that fateful day, April 19, 1775. Woburn heard the alarm bells early and sent 180 men to join in the opening conflict of the American Revolution – the battles of Lexington and Concord. The Woburn militia companies reached the battle scene over Battle Road - a tree and stone wall lined path still existing in West Woburn. It was first laid out in 1644 as "Sawpit Lane" and led to Major William Johnson’s sawpit. Over this dirt road went Sylvanus Wood who captured the first Redcoat. Ashael Porter and Daniel Thompson, the two Woburn men who were killed by the British that day, also used this route. The Battle Road Woodlands – a City Conservation Area – runs roughly parallel with Russell Street towards Lexington.